Perhaps the only facet of the Sur Ron that I feel is underdone is the headset. When I changed my forks over to Dorado’s from RSTs I decided it would be a good time to upgrade to the Cane Creek headset. I really appreciate that the Cane Creeks are made in the States by fellas that live here. Plus they are just plain good.

I’ve done loads of work on motorcycles and bicycles, but had never replaced or removed a headset on either. So I was just a bit nervous. After talking to several individuals I decided to buy the right tools for the job. Most I will never use again, but I always believe in using the right tool for the right job. Here are the tools I felt I needed to replace the headset:

  1. Extra headset spacers. To compensate for the stem height difference between the RST and the Dorados.
  2. Headtube cutting guide. To cut the steering stem to the length I wanted. I can definitely use this later to cut any round tubing.
  3. Star Nut Driver. EVERYONE I spoke to said this is a must have. Driving the new star nut STRAIGHT into the new steering stem isn’t easy without this.
  4. Headset Bearing cup removal tool. You can use a punch or screwdriver, up to you.
  5. Headset Cup Press Set, Bottom Bracket Install Tool. Some use threaded rod and washers. I bought this since it is inexpensive and would prevent me from sourcing the items I would need to build it.

A view from below of the Cane Creek bottom headset cup.

The top Cane Creek headset cup and bearing cover.

Remember NONE of the above is absolutely necessary. I just like to keep my cussing to a bare minimum by using the right tool for the right job.

Here is a great headset installation video made by one of the guys at Luna Cycle where I bought the Cane Creek headset I installed. I highly recommend this headset. It’s made in the USA. Lots of folks buy Hope products. They’re good but just because they’re made by white folks in the UK to me doesn’t mean they’re NOT imports. Most folks seem to feel that stuff made in Europe aren’t imports…bullshit. In the installation video Jason is not using a star nut tool because he’s reusing the same forks. If you’re changing forks, you need a new star nut. There’s also no need to remove the bottom bearing race from the RST forks if you’re not reinstalling those forks.

Rear shock linkage bearings

The shock linkage, needle bearings, bushings and nylon shims. I recommend that these be inspected and regreased about every 1k miles depending on your conditions

Update August 21 2019

My new friend Tore at Varg Trading sent me the newest Sur Ron installation guide for their new tapered bearing headset. You can view that video tutorial below:

Tapered bearing


    • Hey Jose welcome. It is VERY HARD TO TELL by the videos you have supplied just what is the root cause of the issue. I agree that the chain should NOT move from side to side as it does. I’m not sure it’s the bearing on the secondary drive, it’s just too hard to tell. I am wondering if the chain alignment is off, meaning the rear sprocket is not properly aligned with the front. I use a Motion Pro 08-0048 Chain Alignment Tool to measure, but you can simply take a ruler or yardstick and run it from the front countershaft sprocket to the rear sprocket. It should be straight, not to one side or another. I’d check that first because it appears to be the most simple fix. Just adjust your left and right side chain adjustment bolts to center the sprockets.

  1. In case of the shock linkage I noticed some on the SR Facebook page . A guy an extended Version out of Alloy but he didnt explain if he uses the stock bearing setup or something different. Mark, do you have more insight on this?

    • Andreas because I’m not (nor do I ever intend on returning to) on the FB Owner’s group I’m not sure what part of the linkage he extended. I do know that Adam at AE bikes has experimented with some aluminum linkage parts. The OEM bearings are needle bearings that are fine as long as they are maintained. Removing the shock and linkage is no big deal and depending on the type of surface one rides on along with weather determines how often the bearings need to be serviced. I’d ping Steve Ramsden or Adam on the FB group to see if they have more insight about the types of bearing the member is using. I know Steve sells aftermarket ones that he feels are superior to the OEM needle bearings. Hope this helps.

      • Very much so..thanks.

    • I also forgot to mention that personally I am very suspicious of shock linkage changes. I know that Moriwaki Engineering took two full years of testing to design their shock dogbone for the RC51. When I held it up against the OEM dogbone there was only a VERY subtle difference. But after mounting the new piece the handling and acceleration out of corners was night and day. Of course it’s just my personal view, but the geometry of shock linkage is really an accurate science in my view. Not just in the actual design, dimensions and geometry, but the metallurgy itself, the amount of flex and rigidity at key points. WAY above my pay grade to engineer that’s for sure.

    • Yeah unfortunately you must be an active FB member to access that link. Sorry, but see my response to your first question to find out more about the link.

  2. Well..I send the guy a message…lets see what he answers.
    Can understand your position towards FB…thinking about leaving it too.

  3. Hi, Andreas. I’ll suggest that the side to side action of the chain I see in the video, could be the chain itself, or the rear sprocket (not visible in the video) .

  4. The guy (Mike Cronin) answered and for a 7075 linkage he is asking 80bucks plus shipping….not to shabby …I certainly think about it. It uses the same shafts but oilite bushings instead of bearings.

  5. uups …its not 7075 …its 6061…my bet.

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