Update May 21 2020

I have found an available pair of cranks to replace the OEM Luna cranks. The EUL Crank arms. The Monty set I use are impossible to find as of this date. But the EULs will work just as well.

Same offset as the Luna cranks, just a bit longer and black.
The Monty Cranks I use are longer than the OEM Luna crank arms that come with their pedal kit. Monty does make crank arms the same length as the Luna set too.

Due to a little mishap my left pedal crank was bent enough to cause it to foul on the kickstand. I was able to bend it back using a vice and hammer. It motivated me to purchase an alternate set of cranks branded by “Jitsie” sold by the same retailer I used to purchase my Monty cranks. A fellow member on a private Sur Ron group had “successfully” installed a set of Jitsie’s on his bike so I thought they would fit on mine. Not so unfortunately. Either my kickstand or my pedal kit tolerances are different than his. Another user found the same issue with his kickstand and the Jitsie’s. He had to bend his stand inward toward the swingarm until it cleared. I prefer to not do that as a crash on the left side could then cause the stand to foul the swingarm.

The length of the Monty cranks.
Monty cranks easily clear the kickstand. Loads of clearance with the Monty crank.
The Jitsie cranks although less prone to bending do NOT clear my kickstand so I did not use them. The Jitsie crank fouls on my kickstand.

I would prefer the Jitsie’s because they do not have the same bend and material cut away as the Monty’s so I surmise they will not bend as easily under high forces. Keeping the pedal cranks level when bouncing or jumping won’t bend them. But having one pedal lower and then bouncing or landing on the down pedal produces enough force to bend the crank depending on rider weight. Just be aware that the Jitsie brand may not fit your pedal kit. It didn’t work for mine.

Here you can see the material that is removed from the Monty brand. I’m sure it’s to save weight, but I’d rather trade that for strength on the Sur Ron.
The Jitse’s are slightly shorter than the Monty brand.
The bend of the Monty crank is evident.

14 Comments

  1. Do you know of any alternatives to the Monty with equivalent or similar offset. I believe the Monty has a 45mm offset. What would you recommend to be the minimum?

    • Stu I have been very happy with the Monte’s I list in my post. The offset is exactly what is needed to clear the kickstand on the Monte’s.

  2. I can’t find the Monty cranks available online in the US. Went to the site you linked and they don’t have them. Any suggestions on where to find them.

    Thanks

    • I replied to another person’s email about this request. Here you go.

  3. Do you know where I can buy the Monty cranks from.

    • Hi Jeff I just noticed that the retailer I purchased mine from no longer sells them. After doing a short Google search I located a retailer with the Monte Cranks. I’ve changed my two pages where I reference them. Thanks.

  4. How have these heald up under general trail riding?

    • Fine, just keep in mind if your version of trail riding is over very large rocks/roots/etc. you may want to switch to pegs. I keep my pedals level and where/how I ride it’s fine.

  5. Where do you find the Jitsie crank arms?

    • Use my search bar and search for Jitsie. I explain why they didn’t work for me.

    • TOM! You must be monitoring my computer LOL. I JUST ordered a set of those from the exact site you reference. I was waiting for their arrival before posting them as an alternative to the hard to find Monty cranks I use. Thank you!

      • They’re mounted and work well. Now, trying to deal with the stock 48t rear sprocket that seems to be out of round and gives be wonky chain tension, Any thoughts?

        Next project might be looking at alternate spindle/bearing options…

        One thought is https://mbrebel.com/product/7-5inch-sealed-cartridge-bottom-bracket-square-taper-with-keyway-part-20431. I *think* the spindle length is a match, but the bb shell width with the sur-ron (3.5″ / 89mm) is likely too wide and would require it being ground down and threads re-chased.

        Lot’s of other options here: https://mbrebel.com/product-category/bike-motor-parts/wide-bicycle-pedal-crank-sets/

        • Hi Tom, glad to hear the cranks work. Mine arrive Friday and will add them to my site. In terms of the rear sprocket being ‘out of round’ I tend to doubt that. What I found causes an intermittent tension of the chain with the pedal kit is the ratcheting sprocket on the pedal spindle. If you notice the axle (spindel) is notched on the right side with what is suppose to prevent the spindle sprocket from rotating once cinched down. But because the spindle sprocket center is not anywhere close to the tolerances of the spindle when properly aligned with the countershaft and rear sprocket, the opposing 6mm hex screws cause the spindle sprocket to be off center when tightened down. I looked at reversing the spindle, but the tolerances are the same on both sides. I have managed to reduce the off center nature of the sprocket by being very careful to tighten down both set screws as evenly as possible. Even then though I have some uneven tension in the chain. If you want to really check to see if your rear sprocket is out of round, remove the sprocket and spin it to see.

          Seb from Luna Cycle posted a video about aligning the pedal kit sprocket.

          I can appreciate wanting to change the bottom bracket to a sealed bearing set up, but for me it’s just not worth it. Because no pressure is actually placed on the bearing set because I’m not actually pedalling I’m not worried about using a sealed cartridge system. I have ordered the following: Sunlite Sealed Bottom Bracket Cup Set for 3-Piece Cranksets, 68/73mm based on Robert Dutton-Jones comment. It is due to arrive June 5th. And a user on the Amazon link suggested some recommendations installing so I’m going to give those a try too. It all sounds good, but until I try it I cannot say for sure.


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